In 2010, Aziza became the first Moroccan restaurant in San Francisco to earn a Michelin star. Owner-chef Mourad Lahlou named his traditional Moroccan eatery after his mother, and quickly gained a mass following for his popular cuisine.
While locals adored Aziza, the establishment nearly faced permanent closure in 2016. An originally-anticipated two months closure for remodeling stretched into multiple years. Fans began to fear that the beloved local hotspot might never re-open.
But at last, SanFran foodies have reason to celebrate. After 3 years, Lahlou has officially reopened Aziza in its original location. The updated restaurant features a striking new look and a renovated interior to make the traditional Moroccan eatery even more inviting.
Mourad Lahlou Turns From Economics to Eateries
Lahlou first moved to San Francisco from Morocco to study economics. However, the young student found himself spending more and more time in the kitchen, recreating beloved childhood dishes, than studying.
“I was depressed,” he admits. “I called home everyday.” He found solace in harnessing the tastes and memories of spending time with his mother in the kitchen. “She didn’t intentionally teach me how to cook,” he says. “I just liked hanging out with her when I was growing up, and the only time for me to be with her was when she was working in the kitchen.”
After earning his Master’s degree, Lahlou gave up economics and began his culinary career in earnest. In a short time, he moved from various kitchens in SanFran, to running two restaurants of his own. He opened the traditional Aziza, as well as a more experimental, eponymously-named Mourad.
Aziza Nearly Closes Down
Lahlou announced in 2016 that Aziza would close for renovations. In the meantime, he focused on the high-end Mourad and developed plans for some radical changes to Aziza. These included renaming the restaurant “Amara”, and adopting a Mexican fusion style of cuisine.
“If I’m being honest, when I closed Aziza for a remodel, I had a fallout at home with my mom,” Lahlou admits. “We ended up not speaking for about the duration of the construction.”
That duration turned out to be much longer than expected. Due to updated building codes, Aziza remained closed for nearly 3 years.
A trip back to Morocco, however, changed Lahlou’s perspective. With renewed vigor, he set about completing the necessary renovations, and decided to keep his mother’s name. The restaurant’s new menu features some new flavors and offerings alongside many of the traditional dishes that first made Aziza famous, including lamb with garlic and couscous.
Mourad Lahlou Recalls Family Meals
Lahlou’s high-end restaurant, Mourad, offers the chef a lot of opportunities to experiment and play with his craft. But with Aziza, Lahlou can recreate the memories of his childhood – an entire family gathered around for a meal, sharing plates and conversation.
“We’d make breakfast, then sit around the table and argue about what we’re going to have for lunch,” he recalls. “We all ate from the same pot; no one had their own plate. That was a really powerful connection to eat like that. In America, it’s very lonely to have your own plate.”
The renovated Aziza follows this model of dining – lots of plates for sharing in an open, inviting environment. “We wanted lots of little plates and large platters, so people can be gossiping, bumping elbows, and arguing over whose grandmother made it better,” Lahlou explains.
